bkk-a-day

Sometime in the 19th century, before the ancient Bang Rak Canal had been paved over to create Charoenkrung Road, the oldest modern paved road in Bangkok, a man was out fishing early one morning, and noticed something odd in the water. Fishing it out, the man discovered a mysterious old statue covered in mud. He cleaned it up and brought it to his brother, who owned a nearby chicken far. Once they had cleaned the statue up, it was discovered to be an image of the Chinese goddess Taptim. How it ended up in the river, nobody knows! Believing it to be good luck, the family built a Chinese shrine to house the image, and has been living at the shrine as caretakers ever since. The shrine itself was never really on my radar - there are hundreds, if not thousands, of centuries-old shrines in Thailand, but recent news made me want to pay a visit. The shrine sits on land owned by nearby Chulalongkorn University. Very expensive land, I might add. Prime real estate. The university is currently tryi...

Sometimes, I think that people don't get the best impression of Bangkok. I know that I had no idea how developed and modern the city was before I arrived here. Even nowadays, I am sometimes taken by surprise by the city's incredible infrastructure.

  Krabi, in Thailand's far south, is one of my favorite places in the whole country. I think I need a vacation. I realized that I've posted a lot of beach pictures this week. It's been ages since I've been to the beach...

Koh Sichang, a small island off the coast of Siracha, was a favorite weekend resort of King Rama V, and was the home of his summer palace. Just a few hours away from Bangkok, the quiet island is often overlooked in favor of the more popular islands in the south, but is home to some amazing scenes and locations. Here, a lookout point rises high above the island, giving a sweeping view across the bay.

Phechaburi, which means "The Land of Diamonds", lies near Hua Hin at the northern part of the Malay Peninsula. It is one of the narrowest parts of the country, bordering Myanmar to the west and the Gulf of Thailand to the east. The province is home to a very special and famous holy cave. This cave was a favorite of the deeply religious King Mongkut (Rama IV), who believed it to be a place of profound spiritual energy. He would come here to meditate and study Buddhist scripture. Before becoming king and ruling over Siam for over 20 years, King Mongkut spent three decades as a monk. Though he preferred the monastic life, he assumed the throne because of his loyalty and duty to the kingdom. After King Mongkut's death, his son King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) ordered the construction of a temple within the cavern in honor of his father.

Last week was Loy Kratong, the Thai river festival and festival of lights. This year, for the first time since the COVID-19 lockdowns, Bangkokians were allowed to gather to celebrate the beloved festival. On the night of November's full moon, people will gather along the riverside to give thanks to the vital lifegiving waters of the river. Temples will be opened at night, and everyone has fun floating flower lanterns down the river, enjoying delicious Thai carnival food, and watching traditional Thai dances and performances. Here, a small group of monks floats their flower lanterns, or kratongs, in the water at Wat Pho, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha.

  In Thailand, there is a belief that if you can balance a coin in the grooves of a Buddha footprint, a wish you make might come true. It's not easy to do, though, as the engraved patterns on the footprints tend to be worn and uneven. It takes a bit of skill! Balancing the coin looked difficult, so I made a wish that I could get a coin to stand on its edge, and after several failed attempts, my wish did indeed come true.

Wat Pak Nam is an old royal temple. It was founded during the Ayutthaya period in 1610, and received generous support from the Thai monarchs after the capital's move to Thonburi. By the 20th century, however, the temple had fallen into ruin and was nearly forgotten before undergoing a massive renovation by a famous Thai abbot. The temple is now famous for its educational outreach and for its unique and impressive monuments. The great chedi was built several years ago, but the Big Buddha is one of Bangkok's newest landmarks. The most spectacular new sight in Bangkok now is the Phra Buddha Dhammakāya Thepmongkhon, a towering 69 meter (226 ft) tall seated Buddha made of pure bronze - the first of its kind in the world! The statue was started in 2017, and is expected to be finished by the end of this year, when a holy Buddhist relic will be enshrined in the lotus bud atop the statue's head.

The greatest sunset I've ever see in my life was from a small plastic kayak off the coast of Railay Bay in Krabi Province down in Thailand's far south. We had been out for an evening paddle, when suddenly the sky exploded into the most magnificent show of purple, orange, and red. Later that night, once the sun had sunk below the horizon, the bioluminescent plankton came out, making the sea glow an alien blue.

  A temple I visited had a large statue to Phra Rahu, the Indian god of darkness, eclipses, and shadows and king of meteors. According to Hindu mythology, Rahu was a giant who became jealous at not being invited by the gods to share an elixir of immortality. He stealthily stole a portion of the elixir, but was seen by the god of the sun, who told the other gods. Rahu was punished. Now, he becomes angry whenever he meets the sun god, and sometimes tries to eat the sun. That is when there is an eclipse!  To appease Rahu, ask him not to eat the sun, and petition him for blessings of success and wealth, people will make offerings of nine black items such as black rice, grapes, black jelly, black incense, and others. On the days of eclipses, you will often see people making offerings to Rahu.

A local restaurant, tucked away in a hidden alley in Bangkok's busy Chinatown, has been open for generations. An elderly patron remarked to the woman stir-frying oyster omelets that he remembered her from when she was a baby. It's impossible to go hungry in Bangkok, and cheap local restaurants such as this can be found on every street and corner in the city.

We spent a week in Krabi Province, our favorite spot in Thailand's far south. During the week, we stayed at Railay Bay and hired a guy named Coke to take up around on a tour of the Hong Islands. Captain Coke was the owner of a small traditional wooden longtail boat with an overpowered motor This is really the only way to get around when you are visiting the southern provinces. The boats are noisy, rickety, and a bit uncomfortable, but they are also just a ton of fun.

Opened in  1916 during the reign of the forward-thinking King Rama V, Hua Lampong Station is one of the most important landmarks in Bangkok. After a tour through Europe, during which he was greatly impressed by European rail, His Majesty King Rama V promoted the construction of a European-style rail system in Thailand. The very first rail line in the country connected the capital to the beach resort town Hua Hin, and now the rail network spans the kingdom from north to south. Hua Lampong Station is built in a neo-Renaissance style and is considered one of the most beautiful buildings in Bangkok.

I'm trying to become a better photographer. Over the years living in Thailand, my photography skills have certainly improved. I try to document both my everyday life and my big adventures as much as possible, but I've come to realize that the visual medium is perhaps even more important than the words that I write in my blog posts. After all, a picture is worth 1,000 words, right? One of my big weaknesses is night photography. Because of my weird work schedule, I'm rarely outside after dark, and when I am, I don't do much besides walk to and from the train station. Last night, I went to go pick up my wife from the hospital where she works in the hip and trendy Ari neighborhood. I've been here hundreds of times, but decided to walk out a little early to photograph it, focusing mostly on mood, light, and color. It's my first real attempt at nighttime city photography, but I'll try to keep up with these posts from time to time. I hope to see some real improveme...

On a sunny weekend, a group of about sixty Bangkok expats set off on an excursion to a very special hike; a trail which is completely underwater for all but three months of the year. Nakhon Nayok is a province in the central region of Thailand; a relatively easy day trip from Bangkok. We arrived at a wilderness preserve attached to a dam and reservoir which butted up to the southernmost portion of Khao Yai National Park (the oldest and most famous national park in Thailand). This was the "Greenland Trail", a stretch of Thai countryside that looked much more like Greenland than Southeast Asia! It was also one of the greenest spots I've ever seen in my life. Though the river was dry, the ground was richly verdant and blooming in wild grasses. It was a difficult hike, but I felt extremely lucky to be there. Not many people get the chance to see this rough and untamed stretch of wilderness on the far southern border of Khao Yai National Park each year. The landscape here didn...

The Democracy Monument, located in Rattanakosin area near the Golden Mount and Khao San Road, is one of the city's most famous sites. It was quiet that morning, but the monument is often in the news as a major site of nearly every anti-government protest in Bangkok. It was constructed in the 1930s to commemorate Siam's first constitution and the end to absolute monarchy. If you follow news about any Thai demonstrations (or if you remember the Yellow and Red Shirt protests from several years back), you may have seen the Democracy Monument in the news.

Khao San Road is Bangkok's central road for cheap hostels, overpriced bars, and scammy shops. It's the center of the city's backpacker culture. I'm always dismayed to see guide books and travel blogs recommend Khao San Road. It's a wonderful place to visit... if your idea of a good "cultural experience" is watching drunk backpackers stumble down the street. Right now, there are no tourists due to COVID-19, and Khao San Road is quiet and mostly empty. The government has talked about trying to give the grungy old road something of a facelift as they try to structure the Thai tourist industry to appeal more to higher-end tourists rather than backpackers.

Bang Krajao, or the "Green Lung of Bangkok" is an artificial island formed in a bend in the Chaophraya River just a bit south of Bangkok. It's a sort of "urban oasis", where development is limited, allowing a small natural jungle and rural village lifestyle right in the midst of the capital. One of the more unexpected sights that we came across while biking through the dense jungle paths of the Green Lung was the Maha Dewalai Temple, a small Hindu temple dedicated to the elephant-headed god Ganesha. A handful of worshipers were taking part in a ritual - making offerings to Ganesha and whispering their wishes into the ear of Ganesha's rat helper.

  It was a sunny morning on the Chaophraya River, and a tourist boat sat empty. Usually, these boats offer rides up and down the river - often with a meal included. River cruises range from luxurious to basic, and are one of the best ways to see the main sights along the riverside.

  Mall culture may have faded away in the west, but it's still alive and well here in the Big Mango. IconSiam, one of Thailand's newest, most luxurious, and most popular shopping malls, is built across from the Mandarin Oriental Hotel on the Thonburi side of the Chaophraya River. The best (and certainly most fun) way to reach the mall is by taking the free shuttle boat down the river from the central pier at Saphan Taksin BTS Station. The mall is home to the largest fountain in Southeast Asia. On special occasions, the mall puts on a water and light show like something you would see at one of the best Vegas casinos.

Wat Asokharam, the "Temple of No Sorrows", was built by the renowned monk Phra Ajarn Lee in 1962. Ajarn Lee's remains are enshrined within the temple. His place of honor in the shrine hall is due to the Ajarn's teachings, which spread the now common Thai Forest Tradition sect of Theravada Buddhism into the mainstream. Known as one of the greatest teachers and meditation masters of the Thai Forest Tradition, Ajarn Lee's life is full of myth and legend. Although he never made such claims himself, rumors swirled among his students that the master possesses psychic powers. Inside the temple, bronze statues of eminent monks from throughout Thai history encircle the central relic shrine. Each monk sits behind a glass pyramid containing a relic - perhaps a bone fragment or a tooth - of that monk.

A shop sells statues and sculptures of the Buddha. There are many shops like this in Bangkok's vibrant Rattanakosin area (Old Town). I wonder who buys these statues? They are far too big for a private home (I would think). Do temples need to buy their own statues? Or, perhaps the temple's congregation might buy a statue as a donation; an act of good merit. Even after living in Thailand for more than eight years, there are still little aspects of daily life and culture which I don't know.

Thailand is a Buddhist country, but there's a deep element of Hinduism running through Thai culture, and Hindu gods are venerated in shrines and even at Buddhist temples in Thailand. Even though they belong to a different religion, Thai Buddhists often visit the Hindu temple to pray and make offerings, and it is believed that the Hindu gods can give blessings of wealth, luck, happiness, and love. Sri Maha Mariamman Temple is also known as "Wat Khaek", a Thai name meaning "Temple of the Guests". Located downtown along the busy Silom Road, the temple is the biggest, oldest, and most important Hindu temple in the kingdom. It's got a fascinating and rich history tied to the Thailand's substantial Thai-Indian population. When India became a British colony in 1858, some people preferred to leave their home rather than live under the Raj. A not-insignificant number of Indian immigrants made their way to Thailand, and built Sri Maha Mariamman Temple in 1879. Tod...

Chinese-style paper lanterns hang from the ceiling of a Mahayana Buddhist monastery in Nonthaburi, Thailand (a province just north of Bangkok). The temple (Wat Mangkorn 2) took over a decade to complete, and expansions are continually ongoing. It was originally constructed to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the late King Rama IX's ascension to the throne.

Hat Yai Municipal Park in Songkhal Province is unlike like any other city park I've ever been to. It's a hilly oasis in southern Thailand's biggest city, encircled with biking tracks and jogging trails, and featuring temples, shrines, a cable car, an observatory, a science center, and more! The golden Buddha statue atop one of the park's largest hills is the tallest statue in all of southern Thailand.

Islam is the largest minority religion in Thailand, making up approximately 5% of the population, predominately located in the kingdom's far southern provinces near the Malaysian border. The Songkhla Central Mosque in Songkhla Province is popularly known as the most beautiful mosque in the country, and affectionately nicknamed the "Thai Taj Mahal".

Festival days are the most interesting time to visit any temple, but attending a Chinese festival at Wat Mangkorn is an especially vibrant and colorful experience. Built in 1871, Wat Mangkorn is one of the very few Mahayana Buddhist temples in Thailand, and is the spiritual and cultural center of Bangkok's Thai-Chinese population. Here, temple visitors make offerings of fruit, incense, ghost paper, and candles during a Spring Festival celebration.

Wat Bowonniwet, often the first Buddhist temple that tourists in Bangkok visit due to its close proximity to the ever popular (and over-touristy) Khao San Road, is built in a very typical Thai temple architectural style, with sloping tiled roofs and golden ornamentation. Definitely visit this fascinating and historical first-class royal temple, but for what it's worth, I'd avoid Khao San Road... far too many backpackers for my liking! In fact, in all my years in Bangkok, I've only ventured out to Khao San on two very disappointing occasions!

The Loha Prasat (the "Iron Castle") is one of the most interesting monastery buildings in Bangkok. Built during the reign of King Rama III in 1846 in honor of the king's granddaughter, the structure holds a relic of the Buddha himself within the reliquary on the uppermost spire.

Bangkok's new Gold Line monorail was designed and privately funded to carry shoppers to and from the fantastic new riverside luxury megamall, IconSiam. It's kind of odd to have such a short metro line, but the other options to getting to the mall are by river boat or car, and the owners and investors wanted to make shopping at IconSiam as easy, comfortable, and convenient as possible. Since the monorail is fully automated and self-driving, there's a huge front window, which gives riders a great view of the city during the short journey.